ACCENT LIGHTING Lighting that is used to accent or highlight a particular object such as a work of art. To be effective accent lighting should be approximately four or five times the level of ambient light in the room.
ADA (Americans with Disabilities Act) ADA compliant fixtures do not extend more than 4" from the wall.
AMBIENT LIGHTING General lighting that usually lights up an entire space.
Argon An inert gas used in incandescent and fluorescent lamps. In incandescent lamps argon retards the evaporation of thefilament and, thereby, lengthens the average rated life of the lamp.
ARM A decorative shaped tube or casting that is used to support a socket that usually has socket wires running through it.
AVERAGE RATED LIFE An average rating, in hours, indicating when 50% of a large group of lamps have failed, when operated at nominal lamp voltage and current.
Baffle Part of the fixture that blocks light to prevent glare and control brightness. Baffles may be integral blades, plates or grooves or an accessory. Baffles are often painted black to absorb light and used in recessed cans.
BALLAST A device which provides the necessary starting voltage and appropriate current to a fluorescent or high intensity discharge (HID) luminaire.
BACK PLATE The part of a fixture that mounts to a wall or vertical surface.
Beam Spread A measure of the spread of light from a reflectorized light source, a special-shaped lamp with a reflective coating inside the glass bulb to direct the light forward. The beam spread may be very narrow (narrow spot, NSP), very wide (wide flood, WFL), or something in-between (narrow flood, NFL, for example). Examples of "reflectorized light sources" are MR11, MR16, PAR20, PAR30, PAR38, R40, ER30, and BR30 lamps.
Blades Move the airflow in a ceiling or desktop fan. Blades are made of plywood, laminated woods or plastic. A ceiling fan may have from one to five blades, depending on the style of the design. View all the ceiling fan styles we have to offer.
Blade Pitch Angle of the blade iron or blade holder on a ceiling fan. Fans with a higher degree of blade pitch will move more air.
BOBESCHE A disc or decorative plate that sits under the candle sleeve.
CANOPY The decorative plate that attaches to ceiling to cover the junction box.
CFM CFM, or cubic feet per minute, a rating measurement that refers to the amount of air a particular product is capable of moving. The measurement is associated with bathroom exhaust fans and other products such as indoor and outdoor ceiling fans. Generally, the larger the CFM rating, the more powerful the design and the more air it will move.
CFL (Compact Fluorescent Light) An energy efficient fluorescent bulb with a lifespan that is 5 times longer and 3 to 4 times more efficient than an incandescent bulb.
COMBINATION MOUNT Refers to the ability of a fixture to either be hung by chain or mounted directly to the ceiling.
Chandelier A multi-arm, decorative, often ornate ceiling light fixture that holds a number of bulbs.
Cove Lighting Light built into a cove, a shelf or ledge at the upper part of a wall, to illuminate the ceiling. Typically fluorescent, cold cathode or low voltage strip.
CRI Color Rendering Index, sometimes CIE. The ability of a light source to accurately render an object's color in comparison with a natural light source. Measured on a scale of 1 -100 with 100 being the ideal.
Cross Lighting Illumination of an object from two light sources opposite of each other.
DAMP LOCATION Indicates a fixture or fan that can withstand indirect moisture in a protected or sheltered environment.
DARK SKY Indicates fixtures that are engineered to minimize light glaze upward into the night sky.
DIFFUSER A shield or shade that softens light intensity and/or prevents the light bulbs from being directly exposed.
DIMMER A device used for varying the brightness of lamps in a lighting installation.
DIRECT A direct source of light which is cast downwards from a fixture to provide lighting with uniform levels of illumination. Open, louvered, and lensed fixtures can all be "direct".
Etched Glass Glass treated by an acid bath, producing a satiny, diffused surface or design.
EFFICACY A measure expressed in lumens per watt representing the efficiency of a lamp/ballast system or luminaire.
EXTENSION Refers to the depth of a wall mounted fixture or the measurement from the wall to the farthest point on the fixture away from the wall.
FINIAL A small finishing ornament at the crown or bottom of a fixture. Or to decorate and fasten a lamp shade at the top.
FLUSH MOUNT Sometimes referred to as ceiling mounted fixtures, these fixtures mount directly to the ceiling.
GIMBAL (Eyeball Trim) A recessed trim (part of a recessed downlight) that can be rotated to point the light in almost any desired direction.
GLASS OR SHADE A decorative opaque or translucent covering on light fixtures designed to shield the light source or redirect the light.
GU24 A special socket that only accepts special fluorescent bulbs
Halogen Lamp A type of lamp (light bulb) that contains halogen gases (such as iodine, chlorine, bromine, and fluorine), which slow the evaporation of the tungsten filament. Also, sometimes called a tungsten halogen lamp or a quartz lamp. The glass envelope that surrounds the filament of a halogen lamp should not be touched with bare hands. The natural oil from human hands will only help to shorten the life of halogen lamps. If you should accidentally touch the glass bulb, you should thoroughly remove your fingerprints with methylated spirit (denatured alcohol).
Hardwired Technically means that the light fixture is permanently connected to an electrical source. The light fixture is not hardwired if it gets power via a cord & plug.
Harp on a portable lamp the metal frame that holds the shade in place - the metal wire component on a fixture that supports the lamp shade.
HEAT SINK A component or integral part of luminaire that conduct or convects heat away from LED components.
ILLUMINANCE Light arriving at a surface, expressed in lumens per unit area; 1 lumen per square foot equals 1 footcandle, while 1 lumen per square meter equals 1lux.
Incandescent Lamp or Light A lamp that produces White Light when electric current excites the filament.
INSTANT START Ballast starting type. Applies high voltage across the lamp with no preheating of the cathode.
IT DEPENDS The answer to most lighting questions.
Junction Box A plastic or metal container inside which all standard electrical wiring connections must be made. A junction box protects and conceals these electrical connections.
KELVIN AKA Color Temperature
A measure of the color appearance or hue of a light source which helps describe the apparent "warmth" (reddish) or "coolness" (bluish) of that light source. Generally, light sources below 3200K are considered "warm;" while those above 4000K are considered "cool" light sources. The color temperature of a lamp has nothing to do with how hot the lamp will get or how much heat is given off by the lamp. The letter, K, stands for Kelvin. This term is also referred to as the Correlated Color Temperature (CCT).
Here is some information to help you better understand how color temperature can effect your mood and the best applications for certain color temps.
Different types of lights sources produce particular color temperatures.
Krypton An inert gas in incandescent lamps that allows the filament to glow hotter and brighter and last longer.
LAMP Commonly called a light bulb. Fits in a light and glows when turned on.
Lamp-life The number of hours at which half of the test lamps fail. Tip: Shock, vibration, frequent on-off cycles, overvolting, power surges, obstructed ventilation, defective lamps, and other longevity-threats are not factored in.
LED (Light Emitting Diode) A computer chip that lasts 25,000 to 50,000 hours. It is an extremely efficient and long lasting version of solid state lighting.
LED DRIVER An electronic devise which converts input power into a constant current source despite fluctuation in voltage. It protects LED from voltage fluctuations. In simple terms an electronic devise which feed input power to LED to produce light.
LENS A glass or plastic element used in luminaries to seal a fixture or control the exiting light.
Light Emitting Plasma (LEP) An emerging solid-state lighting technology that has applications in high illuminance fixtures such as street and parking lamps. LEPs use a solid-state device to generate radio waves that, in turn, power the plasma, which emits light. LEPs can have a rated life of 50,000 hours, are quickly dimmable, achieve full power in about 30 seconds, and have a CRI up to 94.
LUMENS The output of light generated by a light bulb.
LUX A unit of illuminance equal to 1 lumen per square meter.
Mercury Vapor Lamp A high intensity discharge (HID) light bulb that produces light by radiation from mercury vapor, when supplied with electricity from a ballast. Mercury vapor light bulbs usually have very long lifetimes and are available with clear or phosphor-coated glass envelopes. The Energy Policy Act (EPAct) of 2005 included a provision that no new ballasts for mercury vapor light bulbs may be imported or manufactured for "general illumination use" in the U.S., effective January 1, 2008.
Metal Halide Lamp A high intensity discharge (HID) light bulb that produces light by radiation from certain metallic vapors (such as scandium, sodium, thallium, and indium), when supplied with electricity from a ballast. Known for producing accurate color renditionwith a range of 65-90 and are, therefore, often used to light large gymnasiums and athletic stadiums; can be produced with almost any color temperature from 2700K to 20,000K; relatively unaffected by ambient temperatures and can, therefore, be used indoors and outdoors; has high efficacy of between 65-115 lumens/watt, which makes it approximately 5 times as efficient as a typical incandescent light bulb; has a long life of 15,000-20,000+ hours
Motion Sensor See occupancy sensor; synonymous with motion detector.
OCCUPANCY SENSOR A device which activates a fixture upon sensing the presence of a person.
PENDANT These fixtures can be used to provide both task and general lighting. Equipped with shades or globes to avoid glare, they are suspended from the ceiling over tables, kitchen counters or other work areas.
Photocell A device that detects levels of daylight and adjusts luminaires accordingly. It is often used with a street light to turn the light on at dusk and off at dawn.
Recessed Downlight A light fixture (usually circular but sometimes square) recessed into the ceiling that usually concentrates the light in a downward direction. Recessed downlights are usually composed of 3 key components: the housing, usually hidden above the ceiling, the trim, usually very visible, and the light source, which could be an incandescent, halogen, fluorescent, LED, or HID lamp. Synonyms: downlight, can, recessed can, high hat, pot light.
Rope Light Often describes a string of LEDs or miniature incandescent light bulbs (placed about 1.0in apart) connected in clear plastic tubing (about 0.5in in diameter) that can be plugged into an outlet.
SCONCE An ornamental light fixture attached to a wall to provide additional layers of light in a room.
SEMI FLUSH MOUNT A fixture that is mounted close to the ceiling with a short stem and canopy.
TASK LIGHTING Lighting that is specifically installed to light an area where a task is performed.
TOP TO OUTLET The measurement from the top of the fixture to the center of the outlet box when installed.
Torchiere A tall floor lamp that provides indirect lighting with its light source located within a reflecting bowl that directs the light upward, which then reflects off the ceiling.
Track Lighting Lighting that uses several luminaires attached to a track mounted on a ceiling or wall to illuminate a space. The track provides the current for the various luminaires, which allows them to be manipulated into different positions.
TRANSFORMER An electrical device that transforms the line voltage (usually 120 volts for residential settings or 277 volts for commercial settings) into the voltage that a low voltage lighting system requires. (12, 15 or 24 volts)
UL Listed when a lighting product (light fixture or light bulb) is UL listed that means the Underwriters Laboratories (UL) has tested that specific lighting product and has certified that it meets all of its safety standards and is, therefore, safe to use. The UL symbol with the letter "C" and the letters "US" indicate that the lighting product is UL listed in both Canada and the United States. If the UL symbol only has the letter "C", then the product is UL listed only in Canada. If the UL symbol has no letters next to it, then the product is UL listed only in the United States. The UL listed symbol appears on complete components and end products suitable for factory and field installation.
Vanity Light A luminaire that is positioned above or on either side of a bathroom mirror.
WATTAGE The amount of energy consumed by a light bulb.
A chandelier is often the focal point of a dining room. Suspended over the dining table, it serves as a decorative element that enhances the beauty of your fine furnishings. When the light is dimmed, a soft glowing atmosphere similar to candlelight is created. If equipped with a downlight, the chandelier provides task lighting for the table and accent lighting for a centerpiece. There is no longer any ONE correct way to hang a dining room chandelier! Today's chandelier styles are eclectic and oversized compared to years ago. Many people use a drum shade or other pendant style lighting for to highlight their dining table. Doing something quirky and fun is very acceptable, so whatever looks and feels good to you is all right! That being said, here are some traditional guidelines if you want a starting point. But don't be afraid to deviate from these standards.
The dining chandelier should be centered over the table. The exception to this is if you are placing two chandeliers or multiple pendants over the table instead of one. The lighting you hang over your table needs to be hung high enough to not block the view, but low enough to effectively light up your tabletop. Typically, dining room fixtures are hung 30"-36" above the surface of the table. The same holds true for lighting over island or kitchen tables. For higher ceilings, raise the chandelier so that the chandelier, and not the chain, is the focal point. The chandelier may be raised 3 inches for every foot of ceiling height above 8 feet. For example for a 10 foot ceiling the proper height would be 36"-42" inches.
To avoid bumping heads, a chandelier that is hung over a table should be 12 inches narrower than the width of your table. But 6 inches is also acceptable. Especially if you have a narrow table. A long linear chandelier should be 1/3 to 2/3 the length of the table and are used over rectangular tables, not round. Rooms with a high ceiling or that have a large round dining table can accommodate a larger chandelier to call attention to the setting.
If you have a dining "room" as opposed to a great room, you may want to consider size based upon the dimensions of the space. If your dining room is smaller than 10 x 10, look for lights that measure 17" to 20" in diameter. If your room is around 12 by 12, a 26" or 27" light would be appropriate. If your room is in the 14-18 foot range, look for a fixture that measure 24" to 36" in diameter and so on.
For an arm chandelier, where the bulbs will be visible, 25 watts per socket would be adequate dining light and not too glaring. Shades can also be used to hide the bulbs, but you should not use over 40 watts per socket or the shades may burn. If you are using a chandelier where the bulbs are not visible, or have glass shades that cover them, the total wattage of your bulbs should be between 200 and 500 watts. But this is only if you are using traditional incandescent light bulbs. If you are using energy efficient bulbs, ask your Lighting Corner salesperson how to get the lighting equivalent to 200-500 watts. That will provide sufficient light, and the perfect amount of ambience too.
Tips: Small low voltage lights or recessed lights on either side of the dining chandelier give you more light on your table if your chandelier is more decorative and doesn't give off enough light on its own. Remember, lighting art work, collectibles, and niches, using wall sconces, torchieres, and buffet lamps to add layers of light, all add up to a spectacular dining experience. For a real design statement, install a decorative ceiling medallion with your chandelier. Try hanging a chandelier in an unexpected place! A chandelier will add sparkle to a little girl's room, charm to a nursery or glamour to a bathroom. The bottom of the chandelier shouldn't be lower than 7 feet from the ground if people are walking under it.
Today's kitchen, the center of family activity, wins hands-down as the modern home's busiest room. Lighting requirements depend on the size and complexity of the kitchen space. While the kitchen is primarily a work area, it may also be used for dining or as a gathering place for family and friends. Small kitchens may require only a central ceiling fixture and task lighting tucked under a cabinet. More elaborate kitchens will demand a blend of general, task and accent lighting.
General kitchen lighting can be achieved with either recessed lighting or a central, decorative chandelier. Recessed lighting is best placed around the perimeter of the room and approximately 30" away from the wall. Chandeliers can be used in addition to other lighting in the space. In the kitchen, it is best to use chandeliers with semi-transparent glass shades instead of fabric shades because the glass is much easier to clean.
Undercabinet lighting will quickly and easily illuminate your countertops. The Lighting Corner offers a variety of light fixtures and LED tape to suit your needs. Place undercabinet lighting at the front of your cabinet - not against the wall - so the light will be distributed evenly over the area below. Also, consider putting your undercabinet lighting on a dimmer separate from other lighting in your kitchen. The different levels of light can add depth and dramatic impact to your space, and dimming is an easy way to save energy. Above cabinet lighting, toe kick lighting and inside cabinet lighting is easily accomplished with LED tape lighting and will add a special touch and fabulous look for special occasions and evening use. Consider connecting a motion sensor to your toe kick lighting to illuminate a safe path to the refrigerator for those midnight snacking trips.
Lighting over the kitchen table or breakfast nook is multipurpose - used for dining, homework, hobbies or family business. A decorative pendant or chandelier will provide sufficient task lighting while also adding a touch of style and personality to your space. Mount fixtures 30" above the table top. If your table is round, the fixture should ideally be 12" narrower than the diameter of the table. For square and rectangular tables, choose a fixture that is 12" narrower than the smallest side.
Island counters and breakfast bars demand a combination of task and general lighting. There are multiple solutions, from adding a group of miniature pendants, multiples of a large pendant, two small chandeliers or a long linear fixture. Smaller fixtures are generally hung in odd numbers and larger ones in pairs. Keep in mind that the pendants should not prohibit those standing around the island from seeing one another. Every space and every family is different, so heights will vary, so pendants are typically hung with the bottom of the fixture 28" - 34" from the countertop. But don't be afraid to break out of the mold and raise your pendants if you are more comfortable with them overhead, or in the case of a high ceiling. A great way to determine the best height for you is to inflate several balloons with air, connect a string and hang them upside down over your island. Play with sizes and heights until you like the result and record measurements for your electrician to follow when installing your lights.
Over the sink or range. Using a pendant over the kitchen sink is a popular choice. Many people use the same fixture that they are using over the island, utilizing a shorter rod or chain to keep the light higher over the sink. However, choosing a complimentary but different fixture can be more creative and interesting. A new option is to use a flush mount LED light, or recessed light over the sink or range. This will give you an excellent amount of focused task lighting without competing with other hanging fixtures nearby.
The Foyer says "welcome" and sets a tone for the rest of your home. It should not be overlooked when deciding on new lighting. If it is a small area, a chandelier or wall sconces can provide enough light to make the transition from the outdoors into the home. If it is a larger area, a good sized chandelier, pendant, or sphere is a must. The lighting can incorporate recessed or track fixtures, for instant drama. Tables can hold table lamps, columns can be flanked by torchieres, art on the walls can be lit, and plants can be highlighted with portable up lights. If there is a closet in your foyer, be sure there is enough light to see into it.
How high should my foyer fixture be?
The bottom of the chandelier should be at least 8 feet above the floor. If your ceiling is only 8 feet tall, you need to make certain your door (generally 80 inches tall) will clear the fixture. Keep the bottom of the fixture at about 7 feet and you should be safe. If the ceiling is very high the chandelier may be hung higher than 8 feet. In a two story foyer, if there is a window above the door, center the chandelier so it can be seen from outside. If the foyer is extra large, consider installing two fixtures, or adding sconces on the walls. Sconces should be installed 60" from the floor and 6-8 feet apart.
What is the best size for my space?
A chandelier should be chosen based on the width of the foyer, the ceiling height and any architectural details, such as double doors, or a window above the door. A guideline is to measure the length and width of the room and add those figures together. The sum of those two numbers is the approximate recommended diameter of your chandelier in inches. Example: the area is 14 feet by 18 feet, added together this equals 32 feet. Convert to 32 inches approximate diameter for a chandelier.
Bathrooms today have become versatile multi-use rooms where lighting can be critical to enhance its use. Aside from adequate light at the vanities, don't overlook lighting the tub and shower areas and highlighting any architectural features. Instead of the usual light over the bathtub water, (always have a licensed electrician do any electrical work in a bathroom. Electrical codes vary by location and safety should be the utmost concern in a bathroom) light the corners of the tub where you would place your objects d'art. LED Halogen lights will make your surfaces and objects sparkle, especially if they are marble or glass block. You can also light the floor area under the vanity or the bath tub, to have a soft night-light type effect. Put the lights at the tub area on a separate dimmer switch for a relaxing soak in the tub.
The Powder Room offers an opportunity to get creative with your lighting. Since this area is not generally used for grooming, the lighting can be very dramatic. Try wall sconces on either side of the mirror or for a true design statement hang one large pendant or a couple small pendants. Light up a niche, or artwork, and if the sink or faucets are themselves a work of art, highlight it with a halogen narrow spot light from above. Remember if you use dark colors that they absorb light, so plan for more than you think you need and use a dimmer.
For shaving and putting on make-up, the best light should be even and shadow-free. To achieve this, light should come from above and/or both sides. A wall fixture over the mirror should have at least 3 bright light bulbs. Wall sconces should be at least 28 inches apart and centered 60 inches off of the floor. Of course, taller or shorter people can adjust this guideline. If there are no wall sconces being used, the fixture above the mirror should be at least 36 inches wide to light both sides of your face. The height of your mirror needs to be taken into consideration, but a general rule is to mount the fixture 75"-80" from the floor.
From neighborhood picnics to kids' play time, summertime equals outside time. Much of that activity occurs during longer daylight hours, but darkness is also a great time to enjoy warm-weather days, fall bonfires and winter time fun. How can you create an environment that extends the outdoor activities past sunset? Fortunately, the right light can make evening hours safer and more enjoyable.
Fixtures to consider are the following:
Size The biggest mistake made in selecting outdoor lighting is choosing light fixtures that are too small. If you are replacing existing light fixtures don't assume the original ones were the correct size—many builders use light fixtures that are too small in an effort to control costs.
Light fixtures will only look about half as big on your house when viewed from the street as they do in the showroom. When deciding between two sizes the larger one is almost always the right choice.
If you are only using one lantern, it should measure about 1/3 the height of your door. Two lanterns should measure about ¼ the height of the door. In all cases, the center of the light source should rest approximately 66" above the threshold. Another option to light garage doors is the overhead warehouse style shade. This fixture is typically centered directly over each garage door.
Front Door If you have a dramatic roofline at the front entry, show it off better with a hanging fixture. And/or a combination of hanging lantern and wall mounted fixtures on one or both sides of the front door. Keep a hanging fixture 7 feet above the floor of the porch, or centered in an architectural feature above the door, whatever look is most appealing to you. Install wall mounted fixtures just above eye level usually at between 65 and 67 inches above the ground or porch floor. This places fixtures at between 3/4 and 7/8 of the height of the door and lets those approaching the door knock or gain entry without glare in their eyes. Lights need to be high enough to illuminate the immediate porch area and steps within a few feet of the door. Most designers suggest two lights, one on each side, for a front door and a single fixture for a side or back door. Junction boxes for fixtures at either door are usually located within six inches to one foot of the door frame.
Deck and Patio Wall mounted fixtures are normally used to the side of the patio or deck rear entry and again, just above eye level, or a warehouse shade that is placed higher and centered over the area. An exterior ceiling fan does a great job of cooling the summer air and keeping away bugs under a deck or covered porch/patio.
Flood Lighting Flood lights can be placed in a great variety of places on your home and property to enhance safety and security and illuminate a large area. Popular locations are the edge of the soffet, corner of the house, outer edge of deck, peak of garage and outbuildings. A motion sensor version is available and consider using LED bulbs in your flood lights for longevity and energy efficiency. Point flood lights outward to illuminate a larger area, down to accent the side of a building and reduce glare or up to show off foiliage.
Post Light Post lights are a great choice for lighting a driveway and adding a design element to your landscape as well as safety for guests while parking.
Service Doors There is normally a small fixture mounted next to or above a service door entry to a garage or miscellaneous other side or rear entries to the home
Landscape Lighting The most overlooked, but most impressive lighting out of doors around your home is that which highlights both the natural features of the surrounding trees, plants, and pathways and the architectural details of the building structure. Call The Lighting Corner for a free on site consultation and landscape lighting quote.
Whether for poolside parties, romantic dinners on the patio, kids catching fireflies or barbecues with neighbors, make your outdoors more beautiful and pleasant with these tips and tricks:
1. Improve navigation with outdoor lighting.
Lighting is typically layered into a room or outdoor space in three ways: overhead, task and ambient. Even outdoors - where there are no typical boundaries and borders - those three layers are necessary. Outdoor overhead lighting is important for visibility of steps, paths and walking surfaces. You don't have to light a path completely, but it's good to provide light where there's a bend or an intersection, or as you turn a corner or approach steps. Post or lantern-style lights can increase safety, especially in yards with stairs, stepping-stones or brick-paved walks. Fixtures at a height of 1 to 2 feet create illumination without the large shadows that may render taller light fixtures ineffective. Spacing lights between three and six feet apart along a path is more effective than a few brighter widely-spaced lights. Aim for even lighting along a path to reduce dangers of tripping.
2. Enhance security with outdoor lighting.
To improve visibility and security, combine a motion detector with a sconce to illuminate dark corners or areas near entrances. Be sure to aim lights away from the door. Mount security lights at between 8 and 9 feet if necessary to keep them out of easy reach. If mounting floodlights rather than shaded or more focused spotlights, you may want to check with neighbors before doing final installation. The same "good neighbor" strategy applies to highly-placed exterior fixtures, such as a garage light that lets your kids play basketball in the driveway or a light on your deck that covers the entire patio below.
3. Create outdoor rooms with lighting.
"Creating outdoor rooms is more difficult because you don't have as many features on which to direct light to define or enhance a space other than horizontal surfaces like a deck, patio or lawn," says David Martin with Hubbardton Forge.
Outdoor lighting at the borders of a space is a great way to give people barriers, both vertically and horizontally. "Lights in a tree create something akin to a chandelier hung in the middle of the sky, and even accent lights in the general area of the edge of a patio, deck or porch will glaze across the space and provide enough of a comfort level for people to understand where things are," says Dross.
4. Reduce glare with well-placed outdoor lighting.
Outdoor lighting that casts a glare can be blinding, as can light that's too bright. Light along paths should be cast downward, with fixtures, such as Dark Sky-compliant versions, that are hooded. A variety of lighting options will create layers, allowing you to add or subtract as necessary. Especially with front- and back-porch lighting, professionals note two consistent errors that make lighting less effective than desired. Glare is often a problem when homeowners try to increase the scope of a too-small fixture by adding too-bright bulbs. Replace small contractor-chosen fixtures with larger ones, and try out bulbs from 40 through 75 watts for exterior light that glows rather than blazes.
5. Add decorative elements with outdoor lighting.
Just as arbors, pergolas, patios and other outdoor elements help to enhance the style of an outdoor space, so too can lighting contribute to a well-designed landscape. Well-done outdoor lighting should not only serve the functional purposes of safety and visibility, but also focus attention to the architectural and natural details of the space.
For example, step lights are essential for safe passage, but can also highlight molding or trim details. For a pergola over a deck, an outdoor-compliant chandelier can be a wonderful accent to dinnertime and a way to spotlight the overhead structure and flowering vines. Patio lights provide ambience as well as illumination for cooking outside. Lighting professionals generally agree that front and back porch lights work best when placed just above eye level, usually at between 65 and 67 inches above the ground or porch floor. This places fixtures at between 3/4 and 7/8 of the height of the door and lets those approaching the door knock or gain entry without glare in their eyes. Lights need to be high enough to illuminate the immediate porch area and steps within a few feet of the door. Most designers suggest two lights, one on each side, for a front door and a single fixture for a side or back door. Junction boxes for fixtures at either door are usually located within six inches to one foot of the door frame. If necessary for visual balance, lights may be placed higher when doors are very tall. A more harmonious and better-lit effect may be produced by increasing the size, rather than the height, of the fixtures. Occasionally, an overhead or pendant light is most effective for illuminating taller-than-average doors. With all high-mounted fixtures, your main concern should be that shades do not allow downward glare, which can make it hard to manage using keys or stepping over sills.
6. Enhance inside views with outdoor lighting.
It's often an afterthought, but enhancing the views from inside the house is a natural fit for outdoor lighting. "You are able to enjoy your home's landscaping and outdoor areas from the inside, creating a cohesive space from both inside and out, regardless of the season," says Mager. To do that, layer in a variety of lights—spotlights on trees, lights dotted along pathways, accent lights on unique landscape features.
7. Conserve energy with outdoor lighting.
LED, Energy Star and Dark Sky fixtures are great energy savers. Many options are available today to help you enjoy the benefits of good area lighting in cost-effective ways.
What kind of light do I really need in a bedroom?
Balancing and layering the light in a bedroom is very important. Nowadays bedrooms are more than just places to sleep. They're also places to work, read and spend family time. How can lighting help accommodate all these activities in a single room? By using multiple types of fixtures. For example, using recessed cans for ambient light, a floor lamp next to a lounge chair, table lamps or pendants hanging on either side of the bed, and a decorative lamp on a dresser. Use something with a shade if you want a nice warm glow. Also, consider a source of indirect lighting (light bouncing off something) whether it be sconces that throw light back on a wall, cove lighting that grazes the ceiling or an architectural feature, or picture lights or spots for artwork. The goal is to bring your eye around the entire room, not just focus on the bed. Bringing light into different corners makes a space feel bigger and balanced. The goal isn't an evenly lit room, but an interestingly lit one, so your eye travels from fixture to fixture.
Should I use a Ceiling fan in a bedroom?
Ceiling fans are very popular in the master bedroom and guest rooms as well. Even when your home has central air conditioning, air flow is important in every room. A ceiling fan helps keep the temperature constant and air fresh. It saves energy by allowing you to keep the A/C off a little longer because a breeze keeps you cool. Many ceiling fans incorporate a light as well. Don't forget a light for your closet. Nothing is more frustrating that trying to find the right shoes or coordinating clothing in a dark closet. For safety reasons, a closet fixture must be completely enclosed. We suggest LED bulbs, which will stay cool and give you terrific light. Save a little bit of your budget for closet lighting. You'll thank yourself for years to come.
The great room or family room can serve as a place to watch movies and sports, play video games, read and relax or just hang out with the family. To make one room flexible enough for different activities, think in layers of light. The objective of using layers is to create lighting options for multiple tasks and activities in the same space.
A lighting layer is defined as a specific type of fixture that is unique from others in the same area. For example, a room with recessed downlights, a decorative fixture in the center of the room, and wall sconces on one wall is defined as having three layers of light. Each of the three types of fixtures would be controlled by separate switches.
After creating a space with the appropriate layers of light, bring it all together to create the most entertaining and enjoyable atmosphere with dimmers. Having an integrated dimming system is key to successful layering. Imagine being in a movie theater and having all the lights abruptly turn on at the end of the film. The experience would be diminished, just as it would be if the same happened in a home entertainment room. A dimming control system allows a person to control the lighting in order to create a genuine movie theater experience
What is the best way to light a family and entertainment room with 19-foot ceilings? The room has large exposed beams and trusses on about 15-foot centers, the bottom of which are at 9 feet above the floor.
Due to the large size and variety of activities that take place there, experts recommend using a minimum of three layers of lighting. The first step is to define how you want the light to look and the tasks that will need the best light. To achieve the best light, here are three tips:
Do I need a fan in my great room? And if so, what size?
Yes you do! Most new homes being built today incorporate a good sized fan in the great room or family room. And it makes great sense, because the best place to install a ceiling fan is in a room where you will be spending a lot of time. A ceiling fan will help you stay comfortable. We've all been in rooms that are either too hot or too cold, or ones that feel as though the air has a hard time circulating. But a room with a ceiling fan sees a huge difference in the amount of air moved. And with the onset of so many sizes, styles, blade and metal finishes there is a fan to complement the personality of every home.
There is a great deal of leeway given for fan sizes in personal expression. Big and chunky sizes are "in". But really, anything goes. If you like the look of a fan, don't get hung up on what is the "right size". Just do it! That being said, here are traditional size suggestions based upon the square footage of your great room or family room.
Also, let your lighting specialist know the height of your ceiling (the distance from floor to the electrical box where the fan will be hung) and the pitch of the ceiling. High ceilings and pitched ceilings need special consideration. You may need an extra-long down rod or a slope ceiling attachment.
Think of Lamps as art for your home. Lighting is possibly the most powerful tool you have when it comes to interior design. It does not make sense to invest in beautiful furniture, rugs, paintings and accessories if they are in the dark. According to the American Lighting Association, the perfect light fixture not only illuminates a space - it is also a beautiful, decorative design element. "When looking for a light fixture, think of yourself as a curator looking for a perfect piece of art," says interior designer Laurie Smith. "Like art, a fabulous fixture can make a strong design statement, as well as provide illumination for your space."
Choosing the right kind of lamp and paying attention to its placement can instantly make small rooms look more spacious. A dark or poorly lighted home will always feel smaller even if the room is a good size. For truly small spaces, it's best to incorporate accent lighting with functional lighting. A multi-lamp approach is very effective in helping to visually enlarge a living room or bedroom. Place several table lamps and small accent lamps throughout the room. Having multiple points of lighting dramatically increases the psychological perception of the space. Torchieres, which direct light upward, can add dramatic ambient lighting to smaller spaces with vaulted ceilings.
When using lamps in a bedroom, the lights should not be bright and should actually have relatively low wattage or dimmers. For lamps without built-in dimmers, or for a user that has limited mobility or is unable to grip a knob on a socket The Lighting Corner has convenient table-top or floor dimmers. Lamps in a living or great room space may need to be much brighter to light the room (if you don't have recessed cans) and to give adequate light for reading.
58 - 64 inches from the floor to the top of the shade is a good average height for a floor lamp. A table lamp should also be 58 - 64 inches high when you measure from the bottom of the end table to the top of the lamp. If your table lamp is good to be used for reading, the bottom of the lampshade should be at eye level to someone seated on the sofa. Today's styles encompass a wide variety of shapes and sizes. Eclectic is in, matching is not. So it is perfectly acceptable to have an end table with a table lamp on one end of your sofa, and a floor lamp on the other end. Using UNMATCHED lamps and shades in the same room creates interest and shows each off the beauty of each lamp much better than using "cookie cutter" lamps that all look exactly the same. Arc lamps are available for those hard to light areas over your sectional furniture or to add a dramatic flair to a reading nook with a comfy chair. An arc lamp is also a great alternative for table lighting when you don't want to hang a fixture from the ceiling.
*Bonus tip. If you have a lamp that is not very bright, or does not have a three way socket, and you would like one, The Lighting Corner can change the socket for you!
TIPS FOR CHOOSING A LAMPSHADE
A fan for every room, no matter how large or small
The best place to install a ceiling fan is any room where you will be spending a lot of time. There really is not an area in the house where people are not installing ceiling fans, including the family room, bedroom, recreation room, bathroom and garage. With outdoor spaces gaining popularity, many people are also installing ceiling fans in covered porch areas.
Deciding where to install a ceiling fan is just the first step. Today, a wide variety of ceiling fan sizes, styles and types makes choosing one an important part of room décor. The focus on fans as a part of the home's décor has greatly increased over the past decade. In many cases, a ceiling fan can make a bold aesthetic statement within a living space, becoming a focal point of the design of the room. We constantly review new trends in furniture, lighting and décor styles to meet the market demand for ceiling fans that coordinate with personal style. One of the biggest advantages of buying a ceiling fan from The Lighting Corner is that we have expert sales associates to help with the selection process.
What Size fan do I need?
Ceiling fans provide comfort, beauty and energy efficiency, and can be sized for every space. No longer are you completely bound by a room's size when it comes to fan selection. In fact, some traditionally sized fans may be better fits for smaller spaces, based on airflow needs and overall aesthetics. Mini fans - some with just a single blade and small powerhouse motor - can fit in areas as small as closets. To determine what size fan is best for your space, use the following measurements:
What is CFM?
Ceiling fans help you stay comfortable. We've all been in rooms that are either too hot or too cold, or ones that feel as though the air has a hard time circulating. But a room with a ceiling fan sees a huge difference in the amount of air moved (otherwise known as CFM or cubic feet per minute). Consider a fan with CFM which ranges from 2,000 to 10,000, may be more important than motor size. A good rule of thumb: Choose a 48- to 52-inch-wide fan with about 4,500CFM
Cooling outside patios is a breeze
Just because it's hot outside, you don't have to sacrifice outdoor fun. Ceiling fans can help keep your outdoor patio or gazebo comfortable, much like an actual room. Also by keeping up a nice breeze, mosquito attacks are greatly reduced. Be sure to check your outdoor ceiling fan's UL listing to make sure it's compatible with the location. A fan must be rated for outdoor use to withstand moisture and temperature changes.
Will leaving my ceiling fan on all the time, even when no one is in the room reduce my overall cooling expenses?
No, a ceiling fan will not save energy if no one is in the room. Ceiling fans do not actually lower the temperature of a room; rather they make us feel cooler by moving air over our skin, which increases evaporation of the moisture on our skin. Ceiling fans save energy by allowing the thermostat to be kept at a higher setting, while making you feel as though it is six to eight degrees cooler in that space. The fan costs pennies per day to operate versus dollars per day for the AC. To maximize your savings, be sure to turn off the fan when a room is unoccupied.
Does it matter how many blades are on a ceiling fan?
No. Believe it or not, what's more important is selecting a ceiling fan that is the right size for the space. Traditionally, most ceiling fans sold have five blades, but this is more of an aesthetic consideration rather than a practical one. A fan with fewer blades actually moves more air. That is why fans located high in a space, such as a warehouse, will typically be industrial-grade, three-blade fans. Unless a home has extremely high ceilings and the objective is to move a significant amount of air, it is generally acceptable to buy a fan with four or five blades.
I have a tall cathedral ceiling with a steep slope, will this limit my fan options?
Most likely not. We will need to know the height of your ceiling (the measurement from the floor to the electrical box where the fan will be mounted) so we can choose the right length of down rod for your fan. And if the slope of the ceiling is greater than 30 degrees we will need to add a sloped ceiling kit.
Down rod length guidelines
If your ceiling is under 9 feet: Use down rod included with fan
Ceiling height of 10-12 feet, use a 12-24" down rod
Ceiling height of 12-14 feet use a 18-36" down rod
Ceiling height of 14-16 feet use 24-48" down rod
*You may notice The Lighting Corner recommendations for down rods are more conservative than some. We have found that often times as a ceiling is taller, a long down rod that brings the fan all the way down to 8 foot above the floor is not always aesthetically pleasing. We will ask you if you prefer your fans to drop in the lower range or higher range and order the length that will be most appealing to you.
My ceilings are only 8 foot tall what size fan can I use? And how low can it hang?
See the recommendations above for ceiling fan size. Try to keep your fan 7 feet above the floor or higher. Most fans come with a short down rod to accommodate low ceilings. But if you feel it is too low you can choose a "hugger" fan, which mounts directly to the ceiling with no down rod. some fans can be converted to a "hugger" with a special adaptor. Note: fan blades should be no closer to the ceiling than 7 inches to allow for proper air flow.
The Lighting Corner is your hometown lightbulb supplier. We carry every bulb you have ever imagined and probably some you never knew existed! We have much much more than what is mentioned below. But the following categories are heavily used and this information will answer most questions you may have. Please stop in or call us to help you with your bulb needs.
LED (Light Emitting Diode)
An LED bulb is your best light bulb choice in almost every situation. There are many benefits of using LED bulbs. They are the most energy efficient, last far longer than any other bulb, stay cool to the touch, and look great. Another benefit is that LED bulbs do not emit ultraviolet or infrared rays, and contain no gases or chemicals. So they are the safest to use, and best for the environment. LED bulbs also come in many colors, so you can choose 2700 Kelvin (warm white) if you prefer a soft light, 3000-3500 Kelvin for a true white light, and 4000 Kelvin and above for "daylight" or more blue toned whites. The only disadvantage of the LED bulb is that they are more expensive to purchase than other bulbs. But because they last so long, and use so little energy you save a great deal of money every year! See the chart below.
CFL (Compact Fluorescent Light)
A CFL bulb is just a long fluorescent tube coiled up. The benefits are that they last a long time, use very little energy, and are inexpensive. They are available in all colors of the spectrum, from 2700 Kelvin up to 5,000 Kelvin and higher. The not so popular features are that they are quite different in appearance compared to "normal" bulbs, and they take a minute or two to warm up to their full brightness.
Halogen bulbs are popular because they are the least expensive of all bulbs available today. They have a bright white light (around 3000 Kelvin), and look exactly like an incandescent bulb but they use less energy. However, they don't last very long, and they do get hot like incandescent bulbs do.
Incandescent bulbs are the "old fashioned" bulbs that we all have used for many years. Government regulations no longer allow these to be made in the USA, except for specialty bulbs. Incandescent bulbs don't last very long (compared to the new bulbs available today), they use a lot of energy and are very hot. They are not a cost effective solution any longer. So the quicker you can change your bulbs to LED, the better off you will be!
Old fashioned incandescent filament light bulbs are developing a following of determined folks who simply enjoy the magical quality of vintage incandescent light and the beauty of the softly glowing internal filament.
Vintage light bulbs are used for setting a relaxing atmosphere. The historic Edison-era circa 1912 designed bulb is adored for its unique "squirrel cage" shape and its glowing cage-shaped filament that surrounds the central glass supporting stem. It is a favorite bulb for exposed sockets, chandeliers, sconces, and can be used for both commercial and residential lighting situations.
So why not join the filament movement and designate a lamp or two to creating the classic, warm, and magical atmosphere that only vintage light bulbs can bring to a home environment.